I had been here much earlier on this day to photograph the light of the rising sun, which turned out to be spectacular. I was about to pack away when I noticed a surfer to my left getting ready to go out and enjoy the swell that was pounding in. I thought that if he walked into the shot it might actually work, normally this can be an issue. Before I knew it the surfer was ready and started running towards the water, he ran right into my shot as if it had been set up. While he was running I was busily trying to get my camera settings right and as I did so he stopped, just looking at the water waiting to jump in.
I managed to get the correct settings on my
camera and fired away one shot as a wave crashed up on to the ledge in
front of me. As I wound on the film he jumped into the ocean and the
shot was over.